Discovered during our recent stay in Copenhagen through a conversation with Mikkel Ustrup, General Manager of Nimb Hotel and the driving force behind the project, this beautifully produced volume tells the story of an idea that few would have imagined possible. Nestled within the enchanting surroundings of Tivoli Gardens, the historic Japanese Pagoda has, over the past five years, welcomed an extraordinary succession of Michelin-starred chefs and restaurants from around the world and what began as an ambitious experiment has gradually established itself as one of the most original culinary platforms in Europe.
The book retraces that journey with remarkable depth. Through essays, interviews, archival material, recipes and photography, it reveals how a pavilion originally conceived as part of one of the world’s most famous amusement parks evolved into a destination sought after by some of the most respected names in gastronomy. More importantly, it explains why. At a time when fine dining often revolves around permanence, The Pagoda embraced the opposite approach: impermanence. Chefs arrive for a season, create a restaurant that exists only for a brief moment, and then pass the space on to the next vision.
As the pages unfold, readers encounter an impressive cast of culinary talents. Among them are Poul Andrias Ziska, Paco Morales, Ana Roš, Dani García, Julien Royer, Rui Silvestre and many others who have each contributed a chapter to the story of the Pagoda. Yet this is not a collection of chef biographies. The real protagonist remains the pavilion itself, a place capable of continually reinventing itself while maintaining a powerful sense of identity.
One of the book’s greatest strengths lies in its ability to show that gastronomy is never only about food. Architecture, design, craftsmanship, hospitality and storytelling all play a role. Collaborations with renowned houses such as Fritz Hansen, Royal Copenhagen, Bernardaud, Riedel and Moët Hennessy illustrate how every detail contributes to the experience. The result is a portrait not only of dinners served, but of an entire ecosystem of creativity.
Visually, The Pagoda is equally successful. The photography captures both the intimacy of the dining experiences and the distinctive atmosphere of Tivoli Gardens. Lantern-lit pathways, reflections on the water, carefully set tables and fleeting moments of service create a visual narrative that transports the reader directly into the project. It is a reminder that some dining experiences are inseparable from the places that host them.
What emerges most clearly from the book is the vision of Mikkel Ustrup and the teams behind Tivoli’s gastronomic ambitions. Their objective was never simply to host famous chefs. It was to create a platform where culinary talent, heritage and imagination could meet. Reading these pages, one understands that The Pagoda is as much a story about trust, collaboration and bold ideas as it is about gastronomy itself.
In an era when many hospitality projects seek to standardise experiences, The Pagoda celebrates the opposite. It champions uniqueness, spontaneity and creative freedom. More than a coffee-table book, it stands as a record of one of the most fascinating gastronomic experiments of recent years and offers a rare glimpse behind the scenes of a project that continues to shape Copenhagen’s culinary landscape.
For anyone interested in gastronomy, hospitality, design or the evolution of destination dining, The Pagoda deserves a place on the shelf. Not simply because it is beautifully produced, but because it documents an idea that has proven that some of the most memorable restaurants are not necessarily those built to last forever. Sometimes, they are the ones that disappear, leaving only memories, stories and, fortunately, books like this one.
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