Daniel Boulud welcomed Arnaud Lallement to DANIEL last night for a dinner with Alexandre Chartogne of Chartogne-Taillet and Rodolphe Péters of Pierre Péters. Part of La Fête du Champagne’s New York programme, the October 15 gathering brought two champagne together with two chefs whose task was to build a meal around their wines. For Arnaud Lallement, the journey from L’Assiette Champenoise carried a familiar relationship between cuisine and champagne across the Atlantic.
The selection gave guests a closer look at the decisions behind each bottle. Chartogne-Taillet’s Hors-Série 2019 appeared in a flight comparing crown-cap and cork ageing alongside a magnum, while Pierre Péters’s Les Chétillons offered further perspectives on time spent on lees. Differences in chalk soils, grape varieties and bottle formats provided the evening’s thread, with both growers present to explain the choices made in their vineyards and cellars.
The champagne selection
Chalk soils
● Chartogne-Taillet, Chemin de Reims Blanc de Blancs 2019
● Pierre Péters, Les Montjolys Cuvée Spéciale Blanc de Blancs 2018
● Pierre Péters, Les Chétillons Cuvée Spéciale Blanc de Blancs 2018
Closures and bottle format
● Chartogne-Taillet, Hors-Série 2019 — aged under crown cap
● Chartogne-Taillet, Hors-Série 2019 — aged under cork
● Chartogne-Taillet, Hors-Série 2019 — magnum
Closures and time on lees
● Pierre Péters, Les Chétillons 2013 — six years on lees, under crown cap
● Pierre Péters, Les Chétillons Réserve Familiale 2013 — ten years on lees, under crown cap
● Pierre Péters, Les Chétillons Œnothèque 2010 — twelve years on lees, under cork
Soils, grape varieties and blending
● Chartogne-Taillet, Les Barres 2019
● Chartogne-Taillet, Les Orizeaux Blanc de Noirs 2019
● Pierre Péters, L’Étonnant Monsieur Victor MK13
Selection listed in the organisers’ dinner programme.
Daniel Boulud and Arnaud Lallement conceived the menu to accompany those comparisons, giving the wines room to express themselves throughout dinner. Bringing the growers into that exchange is part of the appeal of La Fête du Champagne: the opportunity to taste with the people who make the wines, ask questions and follow their work beyond the label. The New York programme continues through October 17.
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